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Cesky Terrier Grooming.
Informtion on how to groom your Cesky Terrier
DBT highly recommends the How To Professionally Groom Your Dog At Home ebook when learning to groom your dog or pet.
The Cesky Terrier is also called the Bohemian Terrier or the Czesky Terrier. This short and long haired dog has a wavy, silky coat and unlike most terriers, is clipped rather than stripped.
Its silky hair calls for daily grooming to avoid painful and infectious matting. It must be trimmed at least 4 times a year as a pet dog and much more than that for show.
A basic trim is described at the end of this article.
This dog sheds very little but needs to be brushed and combed daily, to the skin.
Tools: Slicker brush, rubber curry comb, greyhound comb, spray conditioner
Line brushing consists of holding hair up and out of the way and then brushing/detangling a small amount of hair, a row or line, at a time from underneath.
Always work from the inside out on a coat and from the bottom to the top of the hair.
Tough places to brush will be under the pits and haunches.
The objective is to be able to comb through your dog's hair with the medium-toothed comb on the body and the fine-toothed comb on the ears and feathers.
Eyes: Check your dog's eyes daily.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Ears: Check ears once a week.
Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.
Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution.
There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.
Place a few drops of ear solution in ear and rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.
Ear Hair Plucking: Every two weeks.
Hair growing into the ear canal can prevent the canal from drying properly and trap bacteria, causing infection.
Tools: Tweezers, powder, chalk, rubber gloves all optional.
Lift the dog's ear and lay it back. Grasp the hair along the inside of the ear between thumb and forefinger and then pull firmly. This hair should come out easily.
Use tools to help grip slippery hair.
Teeth: Regularly.
80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.
Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.
Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.
Starting your dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward it constantly, no matter what its behavior to get it used to grooming.
Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.
Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.
Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.
Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.
Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.
If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper to get rid of the plaque buildup once or twice a month. Most accumulation is on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.
Nails: Every two weeks.
Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on, affect it's gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.
Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (Scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.
Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.
Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.
If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.
Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.
Some dogs can handle their nails being buffed by the Dremel regularly, rather than clipping.
If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.
Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb. It is better to clip your dog's nails frequently as this encourages the quick to recede farther away from the tip.
Paws: Check daily/Trim every two weeks.
It is very important to Check between your dogs pads for foreign objects that may have wedged there and check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infection.
Tools: Small, blunt scissors, straight scissors, slicker brush, comb.
Cesky Terriers have hair that grows between the pads that can mat and trap bacteria as well as becoming painful to walk on for your dog.
Trim hair around the paws to keep them clean. Only do this when the dog is standing on the paw.
Then, Push the feathers growing on top of the foot down through the toes and trim to pad level.
Lift the paw from the back, brush or comb out the hair and then trim to pad level.
Push the feathers back up through the toes and trim from the top, holding your scissors parallel to the growth of hair. Don't cut across.
Hygienic trimming: 2 to 4 weeks.
Tools: Thinning shears, electric clippers
Thinning, trimming and clipping at the ear opening, base of the tail, around the anus and privates keeps your dog feeling better as well as keeping it and your house cleaner. Cesky terriers also benefit from clipping around the mouth.
Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks
This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.
These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).
There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.
Tools: Warm cloth
Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.
Bathing: As needed
Most dogs do not need regular bathing. They have natural oils that moisturize their skin, keep their coat glossy and resist dirt and water. Stripping these oils with frequent bathing dries out the skin and prevents your dog having a healthy coat.
The Cesky Terrier, however, with its long silky hair will need more frequent bathing to keep tangles, debris, fleas, ticks and infections at bay. Bathing can also help get rid of a large amount of hair during the shedding seasons.
Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, conditioner, leash, towels.
Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.
A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.
Never bathe your dog in standing water. A sprayer hose is a must.
Wet your dog using your hand so as to massage and lift the hair to get to the undercoat.
Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.
Massage lather down to undercoat.
Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.
Condition and rinse well.
Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.
Towel dry your dog by pressing down on the body to avoid tangling hair.
Salon style blowers are recommended for blowing this dog dry. Brush and comb afterwards.
The Salon Treatment:
This is a definite show dog and requires a high level of care even as a pet.
Basic grooming:
Tools: Greyhound comb, Slicker, Thinning Shears, Straight scissors, Electric Clippers, #7 blade, #10 blade, #15 blade, 5F comb.
1) Use the #5F comb to clip the back of the dog from the top of the head to the first inch of the tail.
2) Use the #7 to blend-long furnishings that start at the elbow and continue along the side of the body to the rear
3) Use the #10 on the rear, chest, and neck
4) Following the line of the muscle, create a dip along the back and sides to form a saddle
5) On the front of the dog, shave down to the furnishings where the leg meets the chest.
6) Clip a U-shape down the sides of the legs. This is unique to this terrier.
7) Use thinning shears to blend the lines.
8) Use the #10 on the cheeks to the top of the head.
9) Leave the eyebrows longer, the shortest trim on the outside corner. Blend with the fall from between the eyes.
10) Leave the fall of the face long, only trim the edges.
11) The beard, starting under the eyes at the middle should be blended. The beard runs from the eyes to the outside of the mouth and under the chin.
12) Trim the beard if it is too full. Trim the tips.
13) Use the #15 on the ears, very short. Use thinning shears on the inside of the ears.
14) Furnishings are left long to just meet the floor. Trim if necessary.
15) Use a #10 or a #15 on the tail. Make a V-shape at the top of the tail. Work the longer saddle hair, blending it into the V. Leave the rest of the tail short.
