Collies come in either rough-coated or smooth and both are big shedders. Rough coats need a bit more brushing than the smooth.

Regular brushing is one of the most important things you can do to keep your pet healthy and happy. Brush your Collie at least 3 times a week.

Brushing:

. Removes dirt and debris
. Invigorates skin
. Spreads oils to moisturize skin and keep a shiny coat
. Prevents mats and tangles which are irritating painful and can harbor bacteria, fungus, other infection
. Keeps your house cleaner especially during shedding seasons
. Bonding, massaging, loving interaction
. Early detection of fleas, ticks, eczema, infection and smells that may signify sickness

It's very important to brush a dog with a double coat.

Mats can develop that harbor fungus and create infection. If the mats develop to the point that the dog needs shaving, it can create problems for the dog. Its seasonal growth cycle is disturbed.

It will have problems regulating its temperature; it can get windburn or sunburn, and shaving severely alters the color and texture of the coat.

Shaving also leaves its skin itchy and irritated because dead hair shafts are left behind.

Line brushing consists of holding hair up and out of the way and then brushing/detangling a small amount of hair, a row or line, at a time from underneath.

Always work from the inside out on a coat and from the bottom to the top of the hair.

Tough places to brush will be under the pits and haunches.

The objective is to be able to comb through your dog's hair with the medium-toothed comb on the body and the fine-toothed comb on the ears and feathers.

Tools: Pin brush, Slicker, Rake, combs, spray conditioner

Do not brush your Collie's hair dry. Use spray conditioner.

Use the slicker over the head, back and tail of your Collie.

Use the bristle brush on the thicker fur.

You should always brush in the direction of hair growth.

The rake will help pull out lots of undercoat.

Use the rest of the tools to work out mats and tangles on the chest, haunches, hocks, ears and belly. Be sure to brace one hand against the dog's skin when working on knots.

Eyes: Check your dog's eyes daily.

Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.

Ears: Check ears once a week.

Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.

Trim ear hair as needed.

Nose: Apply Vaseline to your Collie's dry nose.

Teeth: Regularly.

80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.

Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.

Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.

Starting this dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward them constantly so they will begin to enjoy grooming more.

Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.

Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.

Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.

Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.

Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.

If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.

Nails: Every two weeks.

Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.

Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.

Introducing your dog to nail clipping should start off by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke, touch and manipulate your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.

Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.

Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.

Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.

If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.

Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.

Some dogs can handle their nails being buffed by the Dremel regularly, rather than clipping.

If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.

Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb. It is better to clip your dog's nails frequently as this encourages the quick to recede farther away from the tip.

Paws: Check daily/Trim every two weeks.

It is very important to Check between your dogs pads for foreign objects that may have wedged there and check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infection.

Tools: Small, blunt scissors, slicker brush or comb.

Collies have hair that grows between the pads of their feet. This hair can mat and trap bacteria as well as becoming painful to walk on. Trim hair around the paws to keep them clean. Only do this when the dog is standing on the paw.

Then, Push the feathers growing on top of the foot down through the toes and trim to pad level.

Lift the paw and from the back, brush out the hair and trim to pad level.

Push feathers back up through the toes and trim from the top.

Hygienic trimming: 2 to 4 weeks.

Tools: Blunt-nosed scissors, Thinning Shears, Electric clippers

Trimming at the front of ears, under the tail and around the privates keeps your dog feeling better as well as keeping it and your house cleaner.

Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks

This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. There is no need to pay for a task that takes 30 seconds.

Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory. These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted.

Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting. That's when your dog drags its butt along your carpet.

There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.

Tools: Warm cloth

Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.

Bathing: As needed

Collies do not need regular bathing. They have a double coat with natural oils to moisturize their skin and keep them resistant to dirt and water. Stripping these oils with frequent bathing dries out the skin and prevents you dog from having a healthy coat. This will dry its coat and change its texture.

Collies have sensitive skin.

Never bathe a matted dog, the mats will tighten.

A rubdown with a damp towel can remove dirt and spot cleaning of the face, legs and feathers is always an option.

With regular brushing, ear cleaning and gland expression, dog odour will remain minimal.

Bathing a few times a year is usually adequate.

Exceptions to this are when your dog manages to roll in something or during its shedding season. A bath can help to remove a large amount of shedding hair.

Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, conditioner, leash, towels.

Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.

A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.

Never bathe your dog in standing water. A sprayer hose is a must.

Never use human shampoo.

If you choose to bathe your Collie outside, attach the hose to the tap of your kitchen sink for warm water; this will stimulate oil production.

Grooming salons often offer self-service use of their well-equipped facilities.

Wet your dog using your hand so as to massage and lift the hair to get to the undercoat.

Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.

Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.

Massage lather down to undercoat.

Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.

Condition and rinse.

Rinse and squeeze off excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing down gently.

Dry with a towel.

Blow-dry and then brush your dog. Brush against the direction and growth of the fur for fullness.

This dog needs to be completely dry to avoid damp matting of the undercoat.

Self-service salon dryers have more force and less heat than human ones.

Oil this coat if it becomes too dry.

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