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Dog Breeds

Landseer Grooming.

Informtion on how to groom your Landseer


DBT highly recommends the How To Professionally Groom Your Dog At Home ebook when learning to groom your dog or pet.




This huge rescue dog has an oily double coat suited for water. The undercoat is dense and the overcoat is thick, long and wavy. The Landseer is a heavy shedder.

Regular brushing:

. Removes dirt and debris
. Invigorates the skin
. Spreads oils to moisturize skin and keep its coat shiny
. Prevents mats and tangles which are irritating and painful and can harbour bacteria, fungus and other infection
. Keeps your house cleaner especially during shedding seasons
. Bonding, massaging, loving interaction
. Early detection of fleas, ticks, eczema, infection and smells that may notify you of sickness

. Its seasonal growth cycle is disturbed. It will have problems regulating its temperature and can get windburn or sunburn.

Shaving changes the coat color and texture and leaves your dog's skin itchy and irritated.

Tools: Pin brush, slicker, combs, shedding blade, rake

Use the slicker to get out mats. Comb down to the skin.

Line brushing consists of holding hair up and out of the way and then brushing/detangling a small amount of hair, a line or row, at a time from underneath.

Always work from the inside out on a coat and from the bottom to the top of the hair.

Brace the skin of your dog with one hand while working on knots. Pay special attention to ears, elbows, side coat and mid thigh areas.

You should always brush in the direction of hair growth.

Use the rake for pulling undercoat.

The shedding blade will help immensely in season.

Eyes: Check your dog's eyes daily.

Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.

Ears: Check your Landseer's ears once a week.

Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.

Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution.

There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.

Place a few drops of ear solution in ear and rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.

Teeth: Regularly.

80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.

Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.

Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.

Starting your dog off with this practice takes patience.

Reward them constantly no matter what their behavior so they begin to enjoy grooming.

Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.

Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.

Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.

Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.

Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.

If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.

Nails: Every two weeks.

Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.

Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (Scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.

Introducing your Landseer to nail clipping should start by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke and touch your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.

Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.

Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.

Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.

If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.

Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.

If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.

Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb. The Briard has double dew claws on its back legs and one on the front.

It is better to clip your dog's nails frequently as this causes the quick to recede farther away from the tip.

Paws: Check daily/Trim every two weeks.

It is very important to Check between your dogs pads for foreign objects that may have wedged there and check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infection.

The Landseer depends on its webbed feet for swimming.

Tools: Small, blunt scissors, slicker brush.

The hair that grows between pads can mat and trap bacteria, besides becoming painful to walk on.

Trim hair around the paws to keep them clean. Only do this when the dog is standing on the paw.

Then, Push the feathers growing on top of the foot down through the toes and trim to pad level.

Lift the paw and from the back, brush out the hair and trim to pad level.

Push feathers back up through the toes and trim from the top.

Hygienic trimming: 2 to 4 weeks.

Tools: Blunt-nosed scissors, Thinning shears, Electric clippers

Thinning, trimming and clipping at the ear opening, base of the tail, around the anus and privates keeps your dog feeling better as well as keeping it and your house cleaner.

Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks

This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.

These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).

There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.

Tools: Warm cloth

Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.

Bathing: Landseers have natural oils that keep their skin moisturised and their hair water-repellent. Frequent bathing can strip the coat and dry the skin. Only bathe when necessary.

Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, conditioner, leash, towels.

Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.

A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.

If you're bathing your Landseer outside, attach the hose to the kitchen sink for warm water.

Many grooming salons have self-service options with all of the amenities needed to bathe a large dog.

Never bathe your dog in standing water and never use human shampoo.

Wet your dog using your hand so as to massage and lift the hair to get to the undercoat.

Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.

Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.

Massage lather down to undercoat.

Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.

Apply conditioner and leave on for 10-15 minutes.

Be sure to rinse very well as any conditioner left behind will dull the coat.

Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.

Towel dry by pressing to avoid tangling.

Comb and blow-dry. This dog needs to be thoroughly dried to prevent mats from forming. A self-serve salon will have the best dryer. Human blow-dryers get much too hot and don't have enough force.